Patek
Phillipe
- A Brief History
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The
Company known today as Patek Philippe was founded
in Geneva in 1839, by an exiled Polish Nobleman.
Count Antoine Norbert de Patek and his compatriot
Francois Czapek. The earliest watches were signed
Patek, Czapek & co. until 1845 when Czapek left
the partnership. Several years later the company
was joined by French watchmaker , Jean Adrien Philippe,
who later became the inventor of their famous stem-winding
and hand setting mechanism, a modern and reliable
concept. From May 1845 to January 1851 the firm
was known as Patek & Co; Philippe lent his name
to the company in 1851 when he became a full partner.
Among the reasons for their initial success was
the high standard of watch making and practicality
of Philippe's new stem-winding system. In the early
years of partnership. Queen Victoria of England
herself was already a client. From the middle of
the 19th century, Patek Philippe assumed a leading
role in the Swiss watchmaking industry by raising
the standards of workmanship and time keeping through
the introduction of technical improvements (the
free mainspring, the sweep seconds hand), in addition
to implementing improvements to regulators, chronographs,
and perpetual calendar mechanism. As early as 1867
the Paris Exhibition, Patek Philippe displayed watches
featuring functions that were to become the standard
for complicated watches at the beginning of the
20th century; namely a perpetual calendar, a repeater,
and a chronograph with split-seconds. The two most
complicated watches of all time were made by Patek
Philippe. The first, made for Henry Graves Jr. New
York, was completed at the beginning of the century,
and the second, the Caliber 89, the world's most
complicated watch, completed in 1989 (hence the
name) to mark the firm's 150th anniversary. In 1932,
Patek Philippe changed hands, and its new owners
became Charles and Jean Stern. Today the third generation
of this family sill owns and manages the company.
Shortly after world war II, Patek Philippe established
an electronic division, and in the 1950's the company
pioneered quartz technology, filling several patents
and winning multiple awards. Today, Patek Philippe
SA, Geneva, is still a family company, owned jointly
by its president, Mr Henry Stern, and his son and
Vice President, Mr Philippe Stern. The firm has
traditionally made complete timepieces, watches
and clocks, employing craftsmen who are master-watchmakers
capable of designing and finishing the most complicated
watch movements. Other specialists such as goldsmiths,
chainsmiths, enamellers, jewelers, and engravers
complete the firm's manufacturing capabilities.
Although Patek Philippe is rightly famous of the
leading manufacture of mechanical horology, the
firm is also the forefront of the industry as producers
of industrial and electronic timekeepers, with its
highly accurate master-clocks installed in power
stations, hospitals, airports, and other public
buildings and factories. The firm clientele has
included many of the famous figures across history,
including royalty such as Queen Victoria, as well
as distinguished scientists, artists, authors and
musicians, including Albert Einstein, Marie Curie,
Charlotte Bronte and Tchaikovsky. Today, clearly
most of the firm's production consists of wristwatches,
but Patek Philippe retains the ability to produce
pocket watches,and clocks to order, from highly
complicated movements to those decorated with enamelled
miniature paintings and engravings. The company
continues to patent new inventions and improvements
in horology and plays an important role in maintaining
the quality , prestige and reputation of the Swiss
watchmaking.
CHRONOLOGY
1839:
On May 1, Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois
Czapek founded the firm Patek, Czapek & Co.
in Geneva, with head offices located at 29 Quai
Des Bergues.
1842:
Jean Adrien Philippe made the first watch which
could be wound and set by means of crown.
1843:
On May 29, Antoine Norbert de Patek obtains Swiss
Citizenship.
1844:
Antoine Norbert de Patek meets Jean Adrien Phillipe
at the universal Exhibition in Paris.
1844:
Jean Adrien Philippe is awarded the gold medal at
the Universal Exhibition in Paris for his revolutionary
system of keyless winding.
1845:
On April 22, Philippe is accorded Patent no:1317
for his first system of winding by means of the
crown.
1845:
On May 1st, Antoine Norbert de Patek with his partners
Jean Adrien Philippe and Vincent Gostkowski found
in Geneva the firm Patek Philippe & Co, located
at 15 quai Des Bergues.
1845:
On May 17, The firm Patek, Czapek & Co changes
name, officially adopting the name Patek & Co.
1851:
On January 1, the same partners, establish a new
company with the name Patek Philippe &Co.
1854:
Tiffany & Co., New York, becomes an official
customer of Patek Philippe & Co, in the US.
1860:
On October 4, Adrien Philippe is granted a patent
of his fifth system of winding by means of the crown,
Patent no.46951.
1861:
On September 27, Adrien Philippe further develops
patent.
1862:
On May 23, a hunting case pocket watch is put on
sale; it is the 18k gold, no.19850, montre a tact,
quarter hour and hour repeating; 20''' movement
of gilt brass, 19 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic
balance, flat hairspring.
1863:
On June 16, Adrien Philippe is accorded Patent No.58941,
for the slipping mainspring. this invention allows
simultaneous winding of 2 or more mainspring barrels,
a technique which is the foundation for all further
development of self winding systems in wristwatches.
This "slipping" spring makes the mainspring
slide a few degree towards the inside of the barrel
while staying fully wound. The end of the spring
passes from one groove to another inside the barrel,
stopping each time, thus keeping the spring under
constant tension.
1863:
Adrien Philippe writes: Les montres sans clef, a
work on pocket watches wound by means of a crown
in the pendant. This work was published in both
Geneva and Paris.
1865:
Sale of an 18k gold astronomical pocket watch, No.24919,
with a double dial, one for a perpetual calendar
and thermometer, the other for a solar dial with
compass and equation of time. A second, similar,
watch is sold in 1868.
1868:
Creation of a watch mounted on a gilt bracelet with
baguette movement, key winding. Enamel dial.
1876:
On January 21, Vincent Gotkowski retires from the
firm Patek Philippe
1876:
Three employees of the firm replace Vincent Gostkowski:
Albert Cingria, Gabriel Marie Rouge and Edouard
Kohn.
1877:
On March 1, Antoine Norbert de Patek dies.
1880:
The first prize in the Chronometer Competition of
the Geneva Observatory is obtained by a pocket chronometer
with lever escapement and a Breguet over coil hairspring.
1881:
On April 16, Adrien Philippe is accorded Patent
No. 142376 for a micro metric adjustment to the
index regulator subsequently adopted for all the
chronometro Gondolo as well as by many other pocket
watches and wristwatches.
1887:
On April, 27, at 8 a.m. , the trademark PATEK
PHILIPPE & Cie Fabricants a Geneve is registered
with No. 1881, with the symbol of the Calatrava
cross.
1889:
On May 23, a perpetual calendar mechanism is protected
by Patent No. 1018
1889:
A system of winding with two mainspring barrels
for independent seconds movements is granted a patent.
1891:
January, Adrien Philippe passes the company management
to the youngest of his five children, Joseph Emile
Philippe, and to Francois Antoine Conty.
1891:
Edouard Kohn leaves Patek Philippe and takes up
management of the firm of watchmakers Henri-Robert
Ekegren.
1893:
A mechanism for the isolation of the minute recorder
is patented; it can be applied to simple watches
as well as to those with split-seconds.
1894:
On January 5, Jean Adrien Philippe dies.
1897:
A patent is granted for a fixing device for the
opening spring of the cover, set on the band of
the watch case
1899:
A patent is granted for a push-bottom system to
trigger the minute repeater.
1900:
From this year through 1967, Patek Philippe receives
764 prizes at the Geneva Observatory competitions,
187 of which are first prizes..
1901:
On February 1, the firm of Patek, Philippe &
Co. becomes a Joint Stock Corporation under the
name Ancienne Manufacture D' Horlogerie Patek Philippe
&Cie S.A.
1902:
On March 10, at 8am the trademark Chronometro Gondolo
is registered with No. 14401. Characteristics of
the Gondolo chronometer in its various sizes and
in pocket or wristwatch from are the lever a moustaches,
the eccentric micrometric regulation the 9k gold
wheels and the movement with 18 19 20 and 21 jewels
for pocket watches.
1902:
On November 13, a double chronograph mechanism is
granted Paten No. 27052
1903:
A patent is granted to a hairspring regulator with
upper en-piece for all types of watches.
1904:
On March 3, a new system of winding-crown is granted
Patent No. 30474
1904:
A patent is granted for an instantaneous transmission
mechanism in chronograph minute recorders.
1904:
A patent is granted for an extra-flat watch movement.
1906:
The firm delivers to Tiffany in New York, 12 minute
repeating movements, which will first be used for
pendant watches and later for wristwatches.
1910:
On March 24 an 18k gold hunting-case pocket watch.
No 138285, with the Arms of the Duke of Regla in
multicolored enamel is sold. Westminster carillon.
Grande et petite Sonnerie on 5 gongs minute repeater,
22 movement, rhodium plated, 38 jewels, lever escapement,
bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring.
1915
: Creation of the first Lady's wristwatch in platinum
with 5 minute repeater, 10th caliber with 29 jewels,
bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet over coil hairspring.
1916:
On January 31, a very complicated astronomical pocket
watch is sold to James Ward Packard; it is in 18k
gold, No. 174129, perpetual calendar with retrograde
date, phases of the moon, Grande et Petite Sonnerie
on 3 gongs, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph
and diablotine at a fifth of a second, 60-minute
and 12-hour recorders, up and down indicators for
both the movement and the chime, 22nd movement,
rhodium plated, 58 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic
balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring with
micrometric regulation.
1916:
On July 24, an astronomical pocket watch, in 18k
gold (started in 1898) with indication of he equation
of time, sunrise and sunset perpetual calendar and
phases of the moon, is sold. The equation system
rotates and is mounted on the axis of the central
wheel on the back plate.
1917:
On July 16, an astronomical pocket watch is sold
to James Ward Packard. It is in 18K gold. No. 174623,
perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset phases of
the moon, double barrel, 25''' movement, 21 jewels,
lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet
hairspring.
1919:
On November 19, the 18K gold watch No. 174720 is
sold to James Ward Packard; it is a crown-winding
minute repeater with push-button release and 1-minute
tourbillon regulator, with 30-hour power reserve.
The first class precision bulletin was obtained
from the Geneva Observatory with this watch.
1920:
On March 23, an astronomical 18K gold pocket watch
No. 174749 is sold to James Ward Packard; it has
Westminster Carillon, Grande et Petite Sonnerie
on 4 gongs, minute repeater, perpetual calendar,
power reserve indicators for the movement and the
chime. 22''' rhodium-plated movement, 37 jewels,
lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet
overcoil hairspring with micrometric regulation.
1925:
Beginning of the construction of minute repeating
wristwatch movements.
1925:
Patek Philippe makes the world's first instantaneous
changing perpetual calendar wristwatch, with indication
of leap years. Originally it had been created as
a lady's pendant watch, 12''' movement, No. 97975,
20 jewels, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil
hairspring.
1925:
Patek Philippe obtains an exceptional result, winning
the first prize in the chronometer trials, with
a pocket chronometer, obtaining 848 points (7 more
points than the best naval chronometers) at the
Geneva Observatory.
1926:
Fabrication of the first single push-button wrist
chronograph, with 13''' movement, 19 jewels. This
type of movement is housed is housed in classic,
cushion- "tortue" and "tonneau"
shaped cases in yellow pink white gold platinum
or steel.
1927:
Fabrication of a gentleman's watch for left-handed
individuals, with split-seconds chronograph, and
30-minute recorder, 13''' rhodium plated movement,
No. 198012, 21 jewels, 18k gold cushion shaped case.
1927:
On January 20, the first "carry-galbe"
wrist chronograph is sold by Patek Philippe with
13'' movement, for the amount of 2,135 Swiss Francs.
1927:
On March 8, a hunting-case 18k gold pocket watch
No. 198014, minute repeater and music alarm is sold
to James Ward Packard. The tune is taken from the
opera Jocelun by B. Godard, 29th rhodium plated
movement, 48 jewels lever escapement bimetallic
balance wheel, Breguet overcoil with micrometric
regulation.
1927:
On April 6, an 18k gold astronomical hunting-case
pocket watch No. 198023 is sold to James Ward Packard;
3-gong minute repeater, double dial. On the first,
perpetual calendar, phases of the moon, sunset and
sunrise and equation of time; on the second dial
a star chart as from Warren, Ohio.
1927:
In the month of July the production of wristwatches
with split-seconds chronograph begins. The split-seconds
chronograph can record two readings simultaneously.
These watches have classic, cushion, "tortue"
and "tonneau" shaped cases in yellow,
pink, whit gold platinum or steel.
1927:
On October 13, the first instantaneous jumping perpetual
calendar wristwatch, built in 1925, is sold.
1928:
Manufacturing of wristwatches with complete, but
not perpetual, calendar begins and some models have
the phases of the moon. They have a movement of
11''' or 12'''. The cases of these watches have
a classic "tortue" shape and subsequently
a Calatrava model with Ref. 96 The cases are in
yellow punk white gold, platinum or steel.
1928:
Manufacture of the only pocket chronometer with
52 ½ minute Karousel regulator, 19''' movement,
in gilt brass, Geneva quality seal, Lever escapement,
bimetallic balance wheel, flat overcoil hairspring.
1929:
On January 31 an astronomical pocket watch No. 198240
in 18k gold is sold to James Ward Packard. It is
fitted whit several complications including perpetual
calendar with retrograde date display, phases of
the moon, Grande et petite Sonnerie minute repeater,
split-seconds chronograph and 30-minute recorder,
up and down indicators for the movement and the
chime, 21''' rhodium plated movement, bimetallic
balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring with
micrometric regulation.
1929:
Beginning of the manufacture of wristwatches with
jumping digital hours, 10''' caliber, and other
models with jumping hours and minutes. The cases
of these wristwatches are rectangular or "tortue"
shape, either in gold or platinum. Subsequently,
as the watches did not become popular, the production
was stopped.
1930:
Creation of the 13''' Q caliber, split-seconds chronograph
and 30-minute recorder, with rectangular push-buttons.
Only three pieces were made with Ref. 2571. Wristwatches
manufactured either in yellow or pink gold.
1930:
Beginning of the Fabrication of a wristwatch with
split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar,
which will be completed in 1938, the year of its
sale (movement No. 198393).
1930:
Beginning of the fabrication of a wristwatch with
minute repeater, perpetual calendar, platinum case,
movement No. 198340, 29 jewels.
1930:
Patek Philippe manufactures a special wristwatch
with perpetual calendar, date and rectrograde date
display, cushion case, 13''' movement, No. 198167.
1930:
Beginning of the use of the 9''' round caliber for
wristwatches, used until the beginning of the 1940s.
This movement is housed in Calatrava and other shape
of cases. These watches were made in yellow, pink
white gold, platinum or steel.
1932:
The brothers Charles and Jean Stern acquire the
majority of the shares of Patek Philippe & Cie.
1933:
Fabrication of the gentleman's rectangular wristwatch,
Reversible of which very few examples were made.
One was given as a gift by Charles and Jean Stern
to an employee in commemoration of his 20 years
of service. The case is made of gold, with a 9'''
movement.
1933:
The most complicated watch ever manufactured by
Patek Philippe up to 1989 up to 1989, second only
to the Calibre 89 is sold to Henry Graves Junior.
Astronomical double dial watch, perpetual calendar
phases of the moon, sidereal hours, minutes and
seconds, equation of time, sunrise and sunset star
chart for the New York sky, Westminster carillon,
Grande et Petite Sonnerie on 5 gongs, minute repeater
and alarm, chronograph, fly-back and 60-minute and
12-hours recorders, power reserve indicators for
the movement and the chime, Movement, 25''', in
rhodium-plated nickel, No. 198385, 70 jewels, lever
escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil
hairspring.
1934:
Henri Stern, son of Charles Stern, becomes responsible
for the distribution on the American Market and
founds the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York.
1934:
Manufacture of the 9''-90 calibre, of which 17'890
pieces were made and used until about 1987. The
movement is "tonneau" shaped and is housed
in wristwatches of different shapes and metals:
yellow, pink, white gold or platinum and rarely,
steel. Among them are references: 425/1, 494, 528
562, 564, 579, 596, 1434, 1450, 1480, 1482, 1507,
1553, 1593, 2495, 2440, 2441, 2442, 2443, 2456/1,
2471, 2503, 2517, 2519.
1935:
Manufacture of the 8'''-80 rectangular caliber,
of which 3'918 pieces were made and used until about
1960.
1935:
Manufacture of the 12'''-120 round caliber, of which
24'188 pieces were made and used until 1953. the
movement is housed in classic, round or fantasy
cases. These watches are manufactured in yellow,
pink, white gold, platinum or steel. Among them
are references: 96, 1435, 1510, 1527, 1528, 1534,
1543, 1565, 1571, 1582, 1583, 1584, 2405, 2428,
2431, 2439, 2459, 2478, 2511.
1936:
Delivery of the second of the two very rare wristwatches
made on special request by the London firm Goldsmiths
& Silversmiths of 14 and 16''' diameter, movement
and sonnerie de bord in passing with repeater. The
mechanism is operated by a push-button coaxial with
the winding-crown.
1936:
Fabrication of two lady's rectangular wristwatches,
Reversible.
1936:
Manufacture of the 8'''-85 round caliber, of which
8'300 pieces were made and in use up to the year
1967. The movement is housed in square, fantasy,
asymmetrical, driver's wristwatches. In yellow,
pink, white gold or platinum. Among them we ca find
references: 556, 560, 576, 588, 589, 1421, 1478,
3424/1.
1936:
Manufacture of an astronomical wristwatch with perpetual
calendar. Rectrograde date display and phases of
the moon, 11''' movement.
1937:
Manufacture of a unique model of World Time wristwatch.
Ref. 515, 10''' round caliber, housed in a "gable"
rectangular case. The universal hour dial is fixed
and indicates 28 cities based on New York mean time.
1937:
Manufacture of a gentleman's wrist chronograph with
one push-button and 30-minute recorder, 13''' rhodium
plated movement, 18 jewels, 18k gold "carre
galbe" case.
1937:
Manufacture of a gentleman's wrist chronograph with
one push-button and 30-minute recorder, 13''' rhodium
plated movement, 23 jewels, platinum case.
1938:
Manufacture of the 12''' caliber with base caliber
of 12'''-120, in use up to 1950. The movement is
round with center-seconds hand, with indirect transmission;
it is housed in round wristwatches, in yellow, pink,
white gold, platinum or steel. Among them are references:
96 SC, 592, 1497, 1536.
1939:
Manufacture of the 12'''-120 HU (Heures Universelles)
housed in gold wristwatches. In the watch the outer
crown with the name of the cities is rotated manually,
while the crown moves the intermediate ring divided
in 24 hours. Some of these World Time models have
the 12 hour dial in cloisonné enamel
1939: |